Monday, August 1, 2011

Episodio Once: THE BACHELOR EPISODE! (August 1st, 2011)

(written approximately 5 days after the departure of Rebekah)

Bachelordom in a foreign land hit me pretty hard.
When I was a bachelor back in MN in, having my own home gave me sort of a homemaker´s instinct, and gave me a basis for an established, routine, well kept life. And here in Peru, despite the lack of a fully-ours home, Rebekah was with me. Each of us cared for each other, and in doing so also cared for ourselves. If I made her food, I made me food. I fussed over her eating vegetables and fruit, and then I ate even more than she did. She would suggest that I go to sleep, and then she would also.

But in the first days of her absence, the combination of the absence of those caring mechanisms, when combined with the general newlywed loneliness shock, did a real number on me. I found myself staying up till 3:30 and 4:30 in the morning, consuming nothing but soda crackers, cake, water and Inca Kola.  Yesterday I even bought and drank an entire liter of whole chocolate milk, which was bad because I´m somewhat lactose intolerant. I think the only healthy habits I maintained were brushing my teeth and taking my vitamins.

I have to admit that I think part of the reason for my behavior was not merely the shock and loneliness, but also me being amused by all the bachelordom, amused by my terrible self-care, and by my obviously deluded imaginations of nutritional invulnerability. But when last night I started to feel myself getting sick, (foreboding pangs in ear, nose, and throat) I decided it was time to shape up. I made myself ramen with vegetables and an egg (hey, it´s at least 2 steps improved…) and called Rebekah. Still rather amused by myself, I confessed my behavior through a series of chuckles, but then sincerely asked her to tell me to take care of myself.

She of course was very worried. She reminded me that if this is what happens when we´re apart, it will make her worry about me terribly any time I go on a business/fundraising/family visiting trip or anything  of that sort in the future. She told me to “eat the food pyramid!”, as I have told her (and my Anselmo cousins) on various occasions. I remembered that I actually do believe that my body is a temple, not an amusing “see-how-mush-trashing-it-can-take” toy, and felt kind of sad, not so amused anymore.

So although I still stayed up pretty late last night (we forgot to call and check in like we said we would), I had another veggie and protein filled brunch, so I´d say things are on the mend.

Cool times at Wiñarisum!
Jeffrey
Crazy bachelor lifestyle did little to diminish the coolness of working down here with the forming Wiñarisum crew. The visit of Jeffrey Rathlef, who is Director of Community-Based Service and Learning at Gustavus, and my good friend mentor in the area of international collaboration, proved to be very rich and fruitful. Jeffrey is interested in placing Gustavus students in health-related volunteer/shadowing internships in Cusco, and is very committed to partnering with Wiñarisum as one of the sites and co-educators for these internships. In fact, when he brought us to meet with Jean-Jacques, an anthropologist and the director of the volunteer agency Gustavus will be working with, Jean-Jacques said he was impressed with Wiñarisum and wanted to meet with us separately to plan a wider partnership between our organizations.

But apart from the Gustavus volunteer connection, Jeffrey is very interested in the organization itself. After talking with Adolfo and I (not to mention after two years of talking with me about Friends of Belenpampa and then Wiñarisum), Jeffrey officially agreed to be a board member, and was the first to sign and stamp his thumbprint in the Padron de Asociados(Book of Associates/Members). The stamping of the thumb is very fun, and feels so official and serious! Just before his flight, the three of us went out to lunch, and he and Adolfo totally hit it off, blazing in Spanish (Jeffrey´s wife is an Argentinian and they only speak Spanish) about Latin American politics, culture, militaries, nonprofits, you name it. As I sat there nearly as a bystander, I realized that I am definitely looking forward to the years to come of these two fellows sharing work and space.

Ricardo and Rosmery
Two nights ago we had a first meeting with two other potential board members to talk about the organization and how they saw themselves fitting in. Both are longtime friends and colleagues of Adolfo. By the end of the night, we had four more signatures (myself and Adolfo included) in the Padron de Asociados, and many special moments shared.  Ricardo Guillén, a systems engineer who has worked with a number of nonprofits (and whose brother, I believe, is a nonprofit lawyer), agreed to be Presidente (in U.S. terms, the board chair) and Rosmery Solaligue, who has worked with a nonprofit with activities similar to our own, agreed to be Secretary. I will be vice president, and Adolfo, who will be executive director of the organization, will be a normal voting member of the board. (as will Jeffrey)

A gathering that had at first seemed dry and formal became much more powerful when the Peruvians at the table started talking about why they want to be involved. Each voiced their frustration with how after years of trying to improve from the inside the government health system they´re working in, they have seen so little change. They are all truly chomping at the bit to start working “lo mas rapido posible" – as soon as possible – on improving the health system from the outside, through the work of Wiñarisum. Adolfo said, (and later helped me transcribe) “El día de hoy se inicia el término de nuestros años de frustraciones en salud, trabajando sin mejoramiento…” (Today begins the end of our years of frustrations in health, working without seeing improvements…)

2 months earlier, just before I left for Peru, Adolfo had cried some (“me emocioné”) when we finally put together a tentative spreadsheet of the core team who would be working together. “It´s finally going to be real…” he had said. Part of what makes driving change from within the ministry of health so hard is the red tape, another part is disorganization, another is lack of funds, and another is corruption. Organizing outside of the ministry of health but alongside it allows us the freedom to do what needs to be done, but we are committed to work not to replace or fill in for government services but instead to improve them.

The important thing is that there is now team of highly invested Peruvians ready to embark on this work. 2 years ago today, Friends of Belenpampa was a team of highly well-intentioned foreigners, excited for what was to come, unaware that our distance and business was about to make us largely useless. Highly invested Peruvians MUST be the core of this kind of work. Highly well intentioned foreigners can at best support them.

In general here, things have not advanced at the pace I would have liked. But if you think about it, that´s a good thing. Because if they had, it would have meant either that I was doing everything myself (BAD) or that Peruvians were forsaking their existing lives and responsibilities to work at a pace I demand (WORSE). So although I occasionally go crazy wanting things to go faster, I would say that I am very happy with progress here at Wiñarisum.

I don´t have Rebekah´s list of useful Spanish phrases, but I do have a couple of my own favorites, specifically Perú flavored.

~Daniel


HIGHLY PERUVIAN TRANSIT-RELATED PHRASES
Prevent a taxi driver from charging too much:
¿Me ves con cara de gringo? -- (literally: You see me with the face of a gringo?) What, do you think I’m a gringo or something?



Yo soy más peruano(a) que la papa a la huancaína! -- I am more Peruvian than potatoes with huancaína! (a typical pepper and cheese sauce).

Yo soy más peruano(a) que pisco sour. – I am more Peruvian than pisco sour. (a typical beverage of white wine, citrus, rum, and egg whites. Very yummy. Like a Margarita with some richness to it. This expression is actually an affront to Chile, which also claims to be the inventor of pisco sour)


Indicate that you are experiencing difficulty navigating:
Yo estoy más perdido(a) que huevo en ceviche. – I am more lost than an egg in ceviche (a dish of raw fish chemically cooked in cold citrus juice… quite delicious, and definitely does not include eggs.)
Does not go in ->

Yo estoy más perdido(a) que cuy en tómbola. – I am more lost than a guinea pig in "Peruvian Roulette". 
This image should explain it:



Monday, July 18, 2011

Episodio Diez (July 18, 2011)

Buenas noches, amigos!

Well, here we are... my last full day in Peru! I begin my voyage home tomorrow, and then I pretty much turn right around and head down to Kansas to start my teacher training. Crazy! Daniel will remain in Cusco for about another week and a half to help give things a final push before he flies back at the end of July. So hopefully we can wiggle at least one update out of him while he´s still here. =)

Our highlight of this chunk is that Jeffrey is here!! (In case you don´t remember, he´s our professor/mentor from Gustavus.) He arrived yesterday, and after resting up last night we went on a rather whirlwind field trip today! Since our time together here is short, we took Jeffrey on a little tour of all the places relevant to our work here. First we hopped in a taxi and took the 30-minute drive out to Occopata. It´s a BEAUTIFUL drive... all up in the mountains and out in the country. Lots of sheep.  Buuuuut I didn´t take any pictures of the scenery. Just the posta de salud! (health post)


It´s super cute and little -- and happy inside! Lots of light and very clean. Occopata (in case you don´t remember) is the small community on the outskirts of Cusco that we hope to work with on our first project. Basically it´s a bunch of adobe-brick houses (ie made of mud and straw in brick form) plus a primary school, the posta de salud, an almost-finished colegio (like a junior high/high school), and a church. It´s surrounded by a lot of fields and (it seems) almost as many sheep as people! The couple people we talked to were very friendly -- it seems like a great place! 

After we got back down the mountain (the road was under construction, so we had to sit for 40 minutes and wait till the ´down´ part of the road opened up again at noon), we headed to a sweet restaurante criollo (criole restaurant -- basically Afro/indigenous food) for lunch. Jeffrey shared that one of his favorite dishes is ´tripa´ (tripe... aka intestines...) and Daniel decided to try it!


Yes, those onion ring-looking things are bits of pig intestine! I tried one -- they´re actually pretty good, albeit rather chewy. Think calamari.

Then after lunch we headed down to Belenpampa (where Daniel volunteered last time) to check it out. We were lucky to run into the three awesomest people in the whole hospital all at once -- Nora, the head of personnel and volunteer go-to lady, Esther, the head nurse, and Dra. Haydee (aka Mamita!), the new boss of Belenpampa! It was fun to introduce Jeffrey to all of them -- plus Mamita was lookin GOOD!!! Last time we saw her we just went to hang at her house for dinner, but today she was wearing a SUIT and looked like she RAN the place! (Which she does!) It was fun to see her being all in charge of things. I think she´ll be really good. =)

Finally, after a brief jaunt around parts of Belenpampa (it´s too big to look at all of it), we took a taxi up to Siete Cuartones, the hospital where Adolfo works now, to meet him and introduce him to Jeffrey. It was so fun to finally see the two of them meet! They´ve both been so instrumental in the bringing about of Wiñarisum and this whole idea of community partnership, that it´s fun to watch our mentors actually get to meet and talk face to face! We had a great chat.

Then on our way back to Jeffrey´s hotel we wandered around el Mercado San Pedro (the St. Peter Market... by St. Peter cathedral) and I got a sweet Peruvian apron! (It has lots of pockets, since the women here generally wear them as they go about with their fruit carts or whatever, so they need lots of pockets for change.) We decided to give the aisle of dead sheep a miss.

Now I´m just packing up... and hoping everything will fit in my luggage. Tomorrow morning we have a meeting with UNICEF... which I will try to focus on, haha... and then after lunch it´s off into the wild blue yonder with me!

Thanks for reading along with us! Like I said, hopefully we can get at least one update out of my lovely husband before he comes home. Other than that, if you want to keep following us out to Kansas, we will probably start a blog for that soon. (Once it exists I´ll send out the link.)

I will leave you with this lovely sunset view from our balcony a few days ago.



Enjoy your last Spanish lesson! Hope you all are well, y un abrazo muy fuerte del Perú!

Rebequita y Danielito


VERY, VERY IMPORTANT SPANISH PHRASES
Lesson Eight: Viajando (Traveling)

Soy un turista. (I am a tourist.)
¿Puedo llevar una bicicleta a bordo? (May I bring a bicycle on board?)
¿Hay enchufes eléctricos a bordo? (Are there electrical outlets on board?)
Ésta es una trampa para atraer turistas. (This is a tourist trap.)
¿Puede recomendar un buen albergue juvenil? (Can you recommend a good youth hostel?)
¿Tiene un catre para el niño? (Do you have a cot for the child?)
Me gustaría armar una tienda de campaña aquí. (I would like to pitch a tent here.)
¡Utilice un casco de protección! (Wear a helmet!)

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Episodio Nueve (July 14, 2011)

Buenos días otra vez, mis amigos!

Another foggy morning in Cusco. First, an update on Daniel´s (and my, I guess) health, since he was sort of the headliner last time. We are both doing well, and are cold-free! (Although I still have a cough I can´t quite shake, but I think that´s more the dust and my reflux than anything else.)

Our big  news (such as it is) for this week is that last night we had our first informal team meeting for the prospective members of Wiñarisum Alianza de Salud (Wiñarisum Health Alliance). So far our team consists of Adolfo, Rica (the obstetrician I talked about a while back), and Wilbert (the missionary I mentioned a while ago also). Last night we talked through the objectives and organization of both the project and Wiñarisum itself, as well as our next steps (aka go to Ocopata as a group and meet with the community leaders). It was a wonderful, productive meeting -- we are planning to make our first trip to Ocopata hopefully this weekend, if all goes well.

So that was super duper exciting!!!

In other news this week, Daniel and I have just really been enjoying each other´s company. I think we´ve finally figured out how to be ´chill´ about having to wait for people´s busy schedules here, and it´s been really nice this week just to play some games and read interesting books and enjoy each other´s company in between the work sessions. I will certainly miss my wonderful husband when I leave Cusco in SIX DAYS.... I can´t believe it´s already the end for me! But, I know it´s important for Daniel to stay that extra 10 days, and I am also anxious to get going on my stuff for school! So we´ll make it work. (And we´ll try to get Daniel to post at least one blog entry while I´m gone. Jejeje. [That's hehehe in Spanish!])

Yet to come before the end of this trip:

  • First (and second... and maybe third...) visit to Ocopata! Can´t wait to meet our potential partners! Hopefully this will take place this weekend.
  • Jeffrey Rathlef, our professor, collaboration mentor, and the Director for Community-Based Service and Learning at Gustavus, gets here on Sunday!! He´s here to do some study-abroad scouting for Gustavus and is also going to help us troubleshoot and make some connections. Can´t wait to see what he thinks of our progress -- and to introduce him to all our people here! =)
  • Second (and third... etc) meeting with UNICEF (and later, training!). This will probably mostly take place after I leave, but it will be super exciting to see some examples of successful projects and be able to take advantage of their experience and their willingness to train in our team.
Many exciting things are about to happen with regards to Wiñarisum Alianza de Salud... and so with that, I bid you adieu. Hope all is well, feel free to shoot us a line, and enjoy your Spanish lesson!

Un abrazo fuerte, 
Rebequita y Danielito


EXTREMELY IMPORTANT AND USEFUL SPANISH PHRASES
Lesson Seven: "En la tienda" (In the store)

¿Puedo pagar los artículos extentos de derechos de aduana con Euros? (May I pay for these duty-free items with Euros?)
¿Tiene usted un producto inalámbrico? (Do you have a cordless product?)
¿Vende jabón antibacteriano embotellado? (Do you sell bottled antibacterial soap?)
¿Qué tan rápido puede revisar este rollo? (How quickly can you develop this film?)
¿Dónde puedo comprar un transformador eléctrico? (Where can I buy an electrical transformer?)
El pollo es una buena oferta esta semana. (Chicken is a good deal this week.)
Me gustaría tener una bolsa de congelador para mi helado. (I would like a freezer bag for my ice cream.)
Tengo problemas tratando de encontrar las aceitunas. (I´m having trouble finding the olives.)

Friday, July 8, 2011

Episodio Ocho (July 8, 2011)

Buenas tardes, amigos!

A little more of a laid-back week this week. Unfortunately Daniel's come down with a cold, so he's bundled up and munching oranges at the moment, poor dear. We're hoping lots of sleep and vitamin C will cure him sufficiently that he can be functional at our first informal team meeting tomorrow!


He doesn't look so good... but that's mostly just cuz he's got papel higiénico (toilet paper) up his nose. Overall, he has a really good attitude about it! He just says, "It's all part of the game." He's a trooper. =)


Here's what's been going on this week:

Experiments with Peruvian cereal!!! I've been missing home a bit lately, so (because I expressed my excitement to have a bowl of milk and cereal when we got home) Daniel got me a box of cereal.
"MegaTrigo" -- breakfast of barbarians! (His name is "Breno el Bárbaro" according to the box.)
Now, with cereal from foreign countries, you pretty much have to guess. Some are basically American cereals with different names, and some just seem that way but are different. We gave the "MegaTrigo" (trigo = wheat) a try, and it tastes sort of like honey nut Cheerios. But then we noticed a kinda weird aftertaste... so Daniel read the ingredients: "Trigo (wheat), azúcar (sugar), esencia de anís (anise extract)." ANISE!! I mean, they have anise-flavored tea here, but anise-flavored cereal??? Daniel said, "I feel like I just ate an anise bush!"

We met with someone from Occopata!!! Just to clarify, Occopata is one of the two small communities we've been planning to work with. It provides a lot of opportunity because it's small, on the outskirts of Cusco, and (unfortunately) in extreme poverty. The only other NGO there is WorldVision, and it seems like they're just doing sponsorship for individual families. So there's not a lot of nonprofit activity there (especially as compared to some other small communities). There are also a lot of home births and a lot of distrust of medical professionals. Anyway, yesterday we (Daniel, Adolfo, and I) were able to meet with Liz, an obstetrician who also serves as the jefa (boss, manager) of the health center in Occopata. It was a super great meeting! She has in mind a few women leaders from the community who might be interested in working with us, so she's going to go talk to them and see if we can't get a community meeting set up to chat with interested folks. Liz is super friendly and seems like a really solid advocate for the community and the health of its members, so we're SUPER excited that she likes our objectives and is on board with our project!

Machu Picchu turned 100!!! ...Wait, what?  Yes, that's right. Yesterday the city of Cusco declared a city-wide día feriado (festival day) -- aka no work and no school -- to celebrate "the centennial anniversary of Machu Picchu." Now, let's think about this for a second. We're talking about Machu Picchu here. Like the big tall mountains, with the Incan ruins on top... you know, the ones that date back to pre-Colombian (or pre-Cortezian, rather) times... and were "discovered" by Hiram Bingham in 1911 -- OH!!! I get it... that's a hundred years ago! So Machu Picchu only started existing once some old white dude "found" it (with the assistance of "local indigenous farmers") and stole a bunch of stuff. Sounds great! I know -- let's make a picture commemorating this fantastic event and put it EVERYWHERE!!!
Yes, ESPECIALLY in the airplanes going to Cusco, so that this simplistic half-picture of history will reinforce any gringo tourist assumptions that Peru = Giant Tourist Attraction Playground and any local assumptions that History = The Story of Europeans. Great idea!!

Adolfo's quote: "How is this the 100-year anniversary of Machu Picchu? Is the Incan culture 100 years old??"

Needless to say, we stayed home. 

Many many lesson plans were imagined!!! Daniel and Adolfo have continued to work hard on the "founding documents" of Wiñarisum, and I've spent the majority of the last two days researching and brainstorming in preparation for my impending school year. One of my future colleagues was kind enough to send me a copy of the 8th grade curriculum map for next year, so I've been reading over it and trying to get a handle on what will be our first few units. It's super fun!! When I think about being in charge of like 100 8th graders all by myself I kinda freak out a little... but when I look at the map and brainstorm all the cool things we're gonna learn this year, I forget to be afraid and just get EXCITED! I am definitely looking forward to getting into my classroom and seeing where all the learning (mine and theirs) is gonna happen this year! =)


That's basically what we've been up to this week. Oh, and we've discovered a deep and abiding love for Peruvian cheese. But that's neither here nor there.


Hope you all are enjoying your summers -- and we've got two special shout-outs! One to Bethany Jackson, who just celebrated her 21st birthday, and one to the Schulz clan, who is currently chilling at the lake! Love you!!

Un abrazo fuerte,
Rebequita y Danielito


VERY, VERY USEFUL SPANISH PHRASES
Lesson Six: Around the House II

¿Está bien ventilado el departamento? (Is the apartment well-ventilated?)
¿Hay elevador de carga? (Is there a freight elevator?)
No soy muy hábil. (I am not a very handy person.)
¿Prefiere cortinas o persianas? (Do you prefer curtains or blinds?)
Tengo que utilizar un vaporizador de alfombras para remover estas manchas. (I need to use a carpet steamer to remove those stains.)
Hice que deslindaran la propiedad. (I had the property surveyed.)
Esta casa se está derrumbando. (This house is falling apart.)
Mi llave no deja de gotear. (My faucet won´t stop dripping.)

Monday, July 4, 2011

Episodio Siete (July 4, 2011)

Buenas tardes! (Good afternoon!)

It´s been awfully rainy down here the last four days -- which would just be dreary anywhere else, but here it´s also STRANGE! Winter is the dry season here in Peru, so for it to rain is odd, let alone for four days straight! But, despite the odds, each morning we´ve woken up to a muddy, cloudy view like this:
The mountains are quite pretty, I´ll grant you, but the muddy slush all over is a lot less appealing! There is a giant lake spanning the whole road on one entrance to our neighborhood... it always gives the taxistas a bit of pause before they plow through it somehow.

Probably the worst part of winter rains, though, is that they make everything considerably colder, which is somewhat of a deal since few people here have central heating. (Why bother when they´d only need it for like a week out of the year?) We´ve been keeping warm, though, with extra pairs of socks, our knitted llama hats, and nice hot meals -- our favorite of which is our morningly "Huevo McPan" (Egg McBread, literally...) with tasty queso andino (Andean cheese). Mmm!

The highlight for Wiñarisum business this past few days was definitely Friday afternoon, when we met with the director of the Peruvian chapter of UNICEF to chat about collaboration opportunities. It was a really great meeting -- as I´ve mentioned before, the mother and infant mortality and health focus of Wiñarisum goes right along with the millenium goals set by the UN, so Daisy (the director) seemed very excited to work with us. We talked a lot about goals and issues, and then she offered to help us with the formalization process for the asociación civil (civil association) here as well as with training in our team to work more effectively with the folks in our target communities. Very exciting stuff! It´s reassuring to know that we have support from people with as much research and experience behind them as UNICEF! (Oh, and they also said they´d be happy to share their research and the results of previous projects with us so we can learn from them. Sweet!)

So that was pretty awesome news. Our other non-work-related highlight of the weekend was that Saturday morning Daniel and I went on a little field trip with Cheryl and Rafael (Adolfo´s wife and son). At Rafo´s school, each child plants a tree in this forest preserve place when they begin, and then each subsequent year their class goes on a field trip to water the trees, see how they´re growing, and hang out with the other kids and families. This year it was (as I mentioned) raining all day... so only like 4 kids came (out of three classes!!)... but Rafo, Cheryl, Daniel and I had fun anyway! 

Rafo (who we nicknamed "calabaza" or squash because of his orange jacket) led us on a little hike across a stream and up through the trees. It was beautiful! We wandered all over this nature preserve place, looking at plants and teaching each other words. (I said "moss", Cheryl said "musgo", and Rafo said "musgo green!") Then, when we got hungry, we found some fluffy "musgo" under tree cover (still raining) and had a little picnic.
After we ate, we went back to the entrance building and found that the teachers and the four kids who bothered to show up had already left! Our taxista wasn't supposed to come back for us for another two hours, so we decided to just start walking down the hill (aka mountain). It turned out to be a beautiful walk despite the rain -- we could walk on the pavement alongside the road to avoid the mud, plus it was a gorgeous view of Cusco!


We could see the whole city stretched out before us. Rafo picked out the stadium where he plays soccer games on Sundays, and we could see the airport (long skinny thing above left) to one side and the historical center to the other side. Lovely. We took a few pictures of us up there too...


And here's our intrepid calabazita (little squash) and his mom:
Cheryl and Rafael

After a while, we got tired of walking all the way around all the bends in the road, so we decided to take the shortcut stairs that are built into the hills periodically to allow for easy access to the hillside communities, and also quicker ascent and descent for residents and passers-through. They were pretty slippery... but we made it.

Afterwords, we were pretty tuckered out, but it was a super fun day!

So those are our highlights for this session. Other than that, we've just been hanging out, working on stuff, resting, and visiting with old friends. Sunday (yesterday, I suppose) we went out with Mamita (Dra. Haydee) and Gabriel (her 9-year-old son) for ceviche, which is basically raw fish chemically "cooked" in an acidic lime-y juice-sauce. Daniel loves it... but I had cooked trout instead. =)  It was a lot of fun to hang out with them again, and it was nice to do something different (although we do like cooking in our house too).

Well, hope you all are enjoying whatever 4th of July festivities you've got going on back home! We don't have any fireworks, but we'll be thinking of you. Hope you're well, and enjoy your Spanish lesson!

Un abrazo fuerte de Perú,
Rebequita y Danielito


VERY USEFUL SPANISH PHRASES
Lesson Five: Mascotas (Pets)

¿Compró lechos para gatitos? (Did you buy kitty litter?)
Tengo peces tropicales. (I keep tropical fish.)
Me mordió un perro extraño. (I was bitten by a strange dog.)
Necesito una vacuna contra la rabia. (I need a rabies shot.)
Mi gato ha sido castrato. (My cat has been neutered.)
A mi gata le han extraído los ovarios. (My cat has been spayed.)
Mi pena está en celo. (My dog is in heat.)

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Episodio Seis (June 28, 2011)

Buenos días, amigos!

Sorry for the longer than usual gap between updates... we've been fiddling with internet access this past week as well as getting further settled into our new home. But today is another laundry day, so I figured I'd sit down and do some updating while the tub soaks for a while. And I promise I'll make this one a bit longer to make up for lost time. =)

First things first, I realized after my last update that some of our "cast of characters" haven't been introduced! So I will try and acquaint you with more of them this time.

This is Dr. Adolfo. In case you haven't noticed from all our other updates (or from talking to us), he is the Peruvian doctor with whom Daniel/we are working to make the work of Wiñarisum happen! (And in case I have missed saying it somewhere else, the work of Wiñarisum is to work with pregnant mothers to improve maternal and infant health/nutrition and prevent maternal and infant mortality, which has gotten pretty outrageously high!!! In 2009 maternal mortality in and around Cusco was at 5 deaths per week... in 2010 that number is up to 20 per week!!! Yes, PER WEEK. Which is why this is a priority for both the Peruvian government and the UN.)

This is "Killer" (pronounced Keeler in Spanish), Adolfo's family pooch. He has a very loud bark, but he got used to us pretty quickly. His new favorite thing to do is come up on our porch and lie in the sun (and/or try to get in our house for some petting!). He is my laundry buddy. =)

This is the stairway leading up to our apartment. Yes, it is slightly jiggly wrought-iron, and yes, it is two stories tall. The first time I walked on it I thought I was gonna die... but now we're pretty much used to it. 

This is Daniel the Peruvian. You can tell because he's eating "papas a la huancaína", basically Peruvian potatoes with a super-tasty Peruvian condiment called huancaína (see package). We may just have to figure out how to make huancaína and have a Peruvian potato party sometime when we get back to the states... it´s that good. Also, we´ve been advised by Cheryl (Adolfo´s wife) to say to taxi drivers who try to give us the "gringo tax" the following: "Yo soy más peruano que la papa huancaína!" (I'm more Peruvian than potatoes a la huancaína!) So far we've tried it on one taxi driver... and the woman standing next to us laughed and the driver gave us the price we were asking. =)

This is us cooking chicken soup on our "new" gas burners! We were using a single electric hot plate before, but it wasn't adjustable and it seemed like a rather inefficient use of energy... didn't wanna rack up Adolfo's electric bill. We were about to go buy a gas one when Adolfo told us his mother had one in her house that we can use! We love it, and have been trying many new tasty experiments, including the papas above, which were delicious, and this chicken soup, which was... well, a nice try. 


This is the wrapper that our scrubby sponges came in. I don't know why, but it cracks me up. To translate, it says, "Sapolio: The Champion of Sponges" and then I just love the little scrubby bug with boxing gloves.... Not following? Try saying it in Spanish in your best soccer announcer voice: "Sapolio! La Campeona de las Esponjas!!!"

So that's the "cast of characters" for this time. Here's what's been going on in the rest of life this past week!

1) We have been continuing to meet with Adolfo (a lot) in preparation for our first "official" steps. Things are in a good place, and we are in a bit of a waiting stage as we try to set up meetings with important leaders in the two communities where we hope to work. It's been really good practice for us this week to go at Adolfo's pace -- since he still works full time at the clinic, and since the people we're trying to set up meetings with also work full time, that pace has been a little slower than we (especially Daniel) have been used to. Also, both Daniel and I have continued to struggle with sniffles, tummy squiggles, and occasional tweaky back things. The combination of "slowness" and health wobbles has really made us have some "real world" realizations about this work. First, in a month or less, we will be gone, and it's important that the project be firmly anchored with Adolfo (which I think it is), which means that we need to let go of our impatient "American time" expectations and let the project go at its own pace. Second, we gripe a lot about our little illnesses, but when we think about it, how many of the people we hope to work with in Wiñarisum have chronic health issues much more serious than a little sniffle, and work a lot more difficult than going to meetings and typing things on a computer? Thinking about these have helped us to "suck it up" and dig in for some patience with both the pace and our "thorns in the flesh". Or, as Calvin and Hobbes would say, "It builds character." =)

2) This past Friday (June 24th) was Cusco's birthday!! It is also "Inti Raymi", which is Quechua for "Sun Festival", and is an Inca festival to worship the sun. Each year Inti Raymi is marked by a huge dance/celebration/show/thing at Sacsayhuaman (say "sexy woman" and you'll be very close), the Inca ruins that are closest to Cusco (on top of a mountain right outside). Since we weren't here for Inti Raymi last time, and since literally like the ENTIRE CITY goes to watch, we figured we'd go! So we flagged down a taxi and got him to take us to the beginning of the walk to Sacsayhuaman, which looks like this: 

Yes, ladies and gentlemen, that is a HUGE, GINORMOUS STAIRCASE OF DOOM that you see there. We huffed and puffed our way up it, stopping frequently to catch our breath in this thin mountain air, but finally we made it up the stairs... only to discover that we were at a church that was only a staging point for the rest of the climb. Oof. We stopped to rest another minute and, since we were already pretty high up and it was a great view, I took this picture looking back down at the Plaza de Armas (the tourist/historical center of Cusco), which was full of people for a parade:

When we finally got to the top of Sacsayhuaman (up a road, into the archaeological park, up another set of bumpy stairs, across a field, and over a big hill... and all of this at 2 miles above sea level...) we found crowds of people sitting and waiting for the ceremonies to begin! We edged our way in, found a seat on the hill, grabbed an ice cream cone from the vendors (sorta like a baseball game... only Inca) and enjoyed our view:

Bottom: Lots of people's heads. (They eventually sat down... mostly.) Middle left: The arena! (Or what we could see of it...) Top: Beautiful mountains!

We sat and waited a long time for things to start (it seemed like we were waiting for all the gringo tourist groups with their little flags to file into the bleachers, hehe)... and while we were waiting, we noticed a group of dancers waiting as well. Then we saw what appeared to be a scene from a Far Side comic..... 
Yes, that's right. An Inca waiting for the biffy.

 Eventually the show finally started, and we really enjoyed watching it! There were about 10 different groups of dancers/actors, all dressed in costumes that (it seemed) represented a different segment of Inca society (i.e. soldiers, farmers, nobles, etc.). The funniest part, though, wasn't actually a part of the show... it was the people behind us who kept getting more and more frustrated with the people in front of us who insisted on standing up and blocking the view for the rest of us. The heckling started with a fairly polite "La señora con camisa roja -- siéntese, por favor!" (The lady in the red shirt -- please sit down!") Eventually, though, when the front-standers proved rather obstinate, it devolved into orange peel target practice. There was one dude in a green shirt that just would not sit down for anything -- he was completely blocking our view -- so someone with a good arm chucked part of an orange at him and it landed with a satisfying fwop! right in the middle of his back. It was SO FUNNY. He turned around to glare at all of us... and then sat down.

Well, my laundry's all hung out to dry now, and I'm starting to get a bit hungry, so I'd best wrap it up and head into the kitchen to cook up something for lunch.

Hope all is well back in the States -- please leave us a comment or shoot us an email or something -- we'd love to hear how your summers are going!

Enjoy your Spanish lesson -- un abrazo fuerte de Peru!
Rebequita y Danielito


EXTREMELY USEFUL AND IMPORTANT SPANISH PHRASES
Lesson Four: Fiesta Time!

Ese acontecimiento es de corbata negra. (This affair is black tie.)
¿Está casado? (Are you married?)
Olvidé mi paraguas. (I forgot my umbrella.)
Creo que dejé mi paraguas en su casa. (I think I left my umbrella at your house.)
Odio la lluvia. (I hate rain.)
¿Tiene fuego? (Do you have a light?)
¿Leyó el editorial el domingo pasado sobre la educación? (Did you see last Sunday´s editorial about education?)
Me gustaría comprar un barríl. (I would like to buy a keg.)


Monday, June 20, 2011

Episodio Cinco (June 20, 2011)

Buenos días, amigos!

From now on, I will be posting my little updates on this blog, so that folks without Facebook can see them more easily. I will also either post the notes or a link to this blog each time I update it, so don´t worry too much about missing anything. =)

Anyway. SOOOO much has happened since the last time I wrote! I will try to get it all...

1) We moved! We are now living in the 4th-story apartment at Adolfo´s house. It´s soooooo awesome... we even have a little tiny kitchen set up (as of today) with a hot plate so we can cook our own food! We´ll be here for the remainder of our stay, and we are totally loving it!

The view from our porch!

2) This past Thursday, Daniel, Adolfo and I had a meeting with a government engineer named Percy Rueda who is interested in working with us and/or helping us make useful connections for our projects. Funny thing is, when we saw him he invited us to this BIG DEAL event the next day! The point of the event, he said, was that the UN (yes, people from the United Nations) was coming to sign a letter of intention with the regional government of Cusco, and that loads of useful connection folks would be there for us to meet! Needless to say we sort of freaked out... didn´t know what to wear (I brought nothing but jeans, t-shirts, and flannel!), didn´t even have business cards, but with some very generous loaning from Adolfo (about Daniel´s height) and Cheryl (way shorter than me, but we found stuff that worked, haha) we figured out the clothing situation. And Daniel and I went and printed some super sweet business cards the next morning, before the event started.

Basically, the morning event (the big ceremony) was very... ceremonial. We sang the Peruvian national anthem (or everyone else did...) and the hymn of Cusco (or most everyone else did...), there were lots of reporters taking pictures and stuff, several speeches with big fluffy language... oh yeah, and at the end they passed out a glass of wine to everyone in the room and we had a toast. That part was kind of funny! It was kind of cool to see such a formal ceremony though, and hear the speeches. I´ve never heard poli-talk in Spanish before! And the UN lady´s speech was pretty cool -- her name is Rebecca Arias, and she talked a lot about working to make sure that the economic development that´s been coming to Peru and Cusco actually makes it to those who have historically been excluded from said windfalls. It was a pretty cool event, despite all the fluffy formal things.

Then the evening event was a big meeting where the UN folks, people from the regional government, and some non-profit managers got together to talk about collaboration. There was supposed to be work time, but basically this, too, ended up being a big huge pile of speeches, albeit a lot more fiery. (On account of many of the speakers being NGO managers, I´m guessing.) It was suuuuuuuuper cool just to sit and watch and hear what everyone had to say about what issues they were working on, what should be done, how to do it, etc. We also traded a few business cards, which was good. =)

3) Last night we had dinner with Mamita (Dra. Haydee) and her son Gabriel. It was really good to catch up with both of them! Gabriel was about 6 or 7 when we were here last time. Now he´s 9, and he´s getting so big and smart! It´s fun to notice the difference in maturity (and vocabulary!) between him and Rafo (Adolfo´s 6-yr-old son). Dinner was super tasty too... Haydee is a super good cook! She made us pollo con arroz verde (chicken with green rice) and it was DELICIOUS. I wanna learn to make it so I can eat it like every day. So yummy.

4) Then TODAY, I did my first tub of hand-washed laundry!!! I´m so proud of myself. It went off pretty well -- and we really needed it, since we were both about out of clothes. I´m tired, and I bet I´ll be a little sore tomorrow, but I like it. It´s fun to look out the window and see all our shirts and stuff hanging on the line. (Though now, of course, it´s dark.)



5) After a long day of many happy "getting things in order" things, Daniel and I cooked ourselves little egg sandwiches in our new little kitchenette! It is SO HAPPY to be able to cook for ourselves, wash our own laundry, sleep in our little room, work in our little living room... it's perfect.

Left: Little kitchenette!                        Right: Shelf of food. Mmmmm...

So with that, I will bid you adios! You will find another extremely edifying Spanish lesson below. Hope you and your families are doing well.

Much love and un abrazo fuerte!
Rebequita y Danielito


VERY IMPORTANT AND USEFUL SPANISH PHRASES!
Lesson Three: Safety

Me gustaría hablar con un detective. (I would like to speak to a detective.)
Deténgase, póngase en el suelo, y empiece a rodar sobre sí mismo. (Stop, drop, and roll.)
Ya le han aplicado a mi hijo la vacuna contra la poliomielitis. (My son has had the polio vaccine.)
¿Podría revisar la presión de los neumáticos por favor? (Would you please check the tire pressure?)